Restaurant Review: Six by Nico, Bristol

Genna Ash-Brown heads to Six by Nico in Bristol – the latest launch in Nico Simeone’s fast-growing restaurant group – to sample the chef’s reimagined 'Chippie Tea'

As a city with somewhat of a ‘foodie’ reputation, Bristol spoils its diners with a wide choice of top-notch hospitality options. The news of any new culinary endeavour due to land in my hometown always sets my taste buds aflutter, but I was particularly tickled when I heard that Six by Nico would be joining our city’s culinary scene in February.

Having covered several of chef and founder Nico Simeone’s restaurant openings previously in Dine Out, I’d long held a curiosity towards his creative tasting menu concept. And, with 12 sites established across the UK in less than 10 years, clearly plenty of willing punters harbour similar feelings.

Located in Quakers Friars, a historic area that originally housed a Dominican friary and later a Quaker meeting house, Six has established its presence in one of Bristol’s prime shopping and dining districts. As with the group’s other outposts, the venue offers a six-course tasting menu that changes every six weeks, each evolution inspired by the memories and imaginative storytelling of Simeone himself. Since debuting the concept in Glasgow in 2017, the chef has been motivated by one key ambition: to bring an accessible tasting menu experience to the masses for an affordable price. With all six courses offered at £46pp, with the option of an additional £30 for wine pairings or £40 for cocktails, he’s certainly hit on a price point and level of quality that’s not easy to find elsewhere.

All that and a bag of chips

We were lucky enough to try the Bristol venue’s inaugural menu, The Chippie, which was also the inspiration for the group’s first-ever tasting menu. Shaped by Simeone’s recollection of his family-owned chip shop in Glasgow, his inventive and whimsical twists on the iconic fish-and-chip flavours made it clear this was one close to the chef-founder’s heart.

The first course – Chips, Cheese & Curry Sauce – was a real highlight for me. Featuring a golden-fried potato terrine with vadouvan-spiced onion, topped with curry emulsion and served with a warm, aged Parmesan espuma, it really did capture the flavours of my all-time-favourite chip shop order in a concise and beautifully presented dish.

Next was the Monkfish Scampi, a tribute to the humble pub snack and a delightfully vibrant bite. Served with house gribiche, dill emulsion and peas beurre blanc, then topped with a sprinkle of kombu seasoning for a moreish umami hit, it certainly succeeded in making this underrated food item stand out as the star of the plate.

Course three turned the traditional Steak Pie on its head, the beef presented as a tartare and dressed in a smooth oyster emulsion, with a dash of fried beef providing a pastry-like texture. My veggie King Oyster alternative didn’t for a second leave me feeling like I was missing out – and I could honestly drink the beer and onion consommé it was served with by the pint!

Chips, Cheese & Curry Sauce

Next was the Fish Supper, a dish comprising black pollock, salt and vinegar scraps, beer emulsion and pickled fennel, accompanied by a healthy serving of chunky tartar sauce. For me, this one was just a touch too salty, but the pollock was still perfectly cooked and the pickled fennel added a welcome, crunchy tang.

Course five for the meat-eaters was inspired by sausage and chips, consisting of smoked pork belly, salt-baked celeriac, burnt apple and ‘Ultimate Sausage’ – made using smoked ham hock, pork belly, pork mince, black pudding and brown sauce. This was all wrapped up in feuille de brick pastry and spiralised potato, then deep-fried for that soul-pleasing finish. My Salt-Baked Celeriac alternative was another win and, again, the provision of an entirely meat-free Ultimate ‘Sausage’ meant I was very much still included in the fun.

Finally, we were presented with a dish that was obviously a nod to Simeone’s Scottish roots: the Deep Fried Mars Bar. The chef’s recreation of the classic consisted of a chocolate delice and cocoa nib with a side of Irn-Bru sorbet. I mean, can you name a better way to round off a not-your-everyday Scottish chippie tea?!

All in all, Simeone’s offbeat culinary offerings were a joy to experience, with this menu in particular taking diners on a comforting journey of nostalgia via some of the most beloved dishes the UK has produced. It was clever, fun and entirely accessible, which, when it comes to tasting menus, is a real feat in itself.

Next up at the Bristol restaurant is a globe-trotting menu called the ‘Six Wonders of the World’. I may have to make another booking to appease my fear of missing out!

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