Restaurant Review: A JOIA to behold

One year on from the concept’s debut at art’otel Battersea, Genna Ash-Brown explores Henrique Sá Pessoa’s celebration of Iberian culture and cuisine at JOIA, Battersea Power Station

New restaurant openings tend to generate hype – especially in central London, where they’re generally backed by comprehensive and connected marketing campaigns. Our pages will always proudly accommodate such launches, but isn’t there a case for revisiting these venues when the buzz begins to quiet down, the dust starts to settle and service runs like a well-oiled machine?

Dedicated to championing the vast and varied fruits of hospitality, we thought we’d try a new spin on the traditional review by visiting after the restaurant’s first year in business. We hope our musings can provide an additional boost in bookings after the initial flourish of footfall has died down.

First up on the agenda, JOIA – a restaurant I’ve been eagerly following since it landed on the scene in February 2023.

Tickled pink

The brain behind JOIA is one of Portugal’s most celebrated chefs, Henrique Sá Pessoa. His portfolio includes the two Michelin-starred Alma in his native city of Lisbon, along with the relaxed, trans-Iberian tapas spot Tapisco, also in his home city. Not only this, but he’s executive chef at the critically acclaimed ACRA restaurant, located in art’otel Amsterdam. So, when the hotel brand announced that a sister branch would be launching in London’s new £9bn Battersea Power Station development, there was no better man to oversee its culinary operations.

The Iberian restaurant and bar comprises three distinct spaces: a 15th-floor restaurant, with floor-to-ceiling windows that offer unparalleled views of the city’s skyline; a 14th-floor bar; and a rooftop bar with infinity pool – a certified honey trap for London’s hip and happenin’ socialites seeking the perfect shot for ‘The ‘gram’. Walk through those doors at ground level and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d wandered into a scene from the latest Wes Anderson film. Make your way through the curve-walled foyer adorned with colourful, modern art (the clue’s in the art’otel name), head straight for the lift and tap the button for floor 15.

An effortlessly stylish interior (Image: Matt Russell/JOIA)

There’s no doubt this place is absolute catnip for trendy, creative types. Everything about it oozes with style. The pink colour scheme encountered below continues on the restaurant’s level; it’s not the hyper-feminine Barbie Dreamhouse vibe you might imagine, but rather a tasteful exploration of the romantic hues this particular palette has to offer. It’s a clever choice – one that somehow manages to achieve a look that’s both classic and contemporary. The pastel pinks effortlessly complement the azure sky on a gleaming day in central London, the colour combination reminiscent of the dream-like heavens depicted in your favourite Renaissance painting.

A jewel in London's crown

Pessoa’s menu at JOIA – a Portuguese word that means ‘jewel’ in English – is a celebration of traditional recipes with modern Iberian influences and dishes designed to be shared. We eased into the experience with a cocktail – me opting for the Safira Rosa, a deliciously light and morish tipple featuring Komos Reposado Rosa tequila with elderflower, grapefruit tonic and rose petal water (£16), and my more than willing plus one selecting the Esmeralda – a perfectly crafted, elegant serve blending basil-infused Plymouth Gin, mint, matcha, citrus and foam (£15). Safe to say these drinks got us in the mood and I wish we could have explored more of the creative cocktail offering. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves – the rest of the menu awaits.

We were advised to order two to three small plates between us – and of course we willingly obliged. The Glazed Aubergine with black olive tapenade and walnuts (£12) was first to grace our table, a smoky, umami delight that didn’t disappoint. This was soon joined by Tuna Tartare with confit tomato dressing (£19), the accompanying ajo blanco carefully drizzled atop the dish by our waiter at the table, providing that little bit of subtle theatre that makes the experience feel special. Next up, in my opinion, was the star of the show – the Arroz De Marisco for two (£64), a sizzling, paella-like recipe featuring bomba rice, red prawns, mussels and clams. I’m a self-confessed seafood fanatic, and this really is a dish I could tuck into and enjoy time and time again.

At this point, we were bordering on full – but there’s always room for dessert. Oh, and of course, a carafe of Azevedo Portuguese Vinhos Verdes (£33). We couldn’t resist the Basque Cheesecake (£9.50), a consistently satisfying classic served with quince compote. This was joined by the Pudim Abade Priscos with mandarin sorbet (£10), a fruity wobbler similar in texture to  crème caramel. And then, the cherry on the cake – the bonus dessert we didn’t order but the team clearly felt we shouldn’t go without: Pessoa’s own creation, Torrija – a creamy caramelised brioche dessert topped with almonds, raspberries and Madeira ice cream (£9.50). I can’t lie, it was the brioche that put me off ordering this pud to begin with, but I’m not too proud to eat humble pie (I’ll take three portions, in fact) and admit that I was wrong. If you want pure indulgence when it comes to dessert, this is the one for you. You might leave with tighter jeans than when you arrived, but you’ll also have zero regrets.

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