Feature: Tell me about it, spud

The potato is as delicious as it is versatile, but many underestimate the power of this humble carb – here’s what you can do if you’re stuck in a rut when it comes to your spuds and sides

The Inca in Peru were the first to cultivate potatoes in 8,000 to 5,000 B.C. These ancient vegetables have survived the rise and fall of multiple civilisations, becoming an enduring pillar of strength for peasants and noblemen alike. Today, ‘taters are a staple food in cuisines all over the world, and you’d be hard-pushed to find a restaurant that doesn’t serve up these diverse carbohydrates in at least one of their glorious forms.

Figures from Statista show that in 2018-19, the UK public consumed a weekly average of 69g of fresh and processed potatoes – including chips and other variations – per person outside of their homes. That may not seem like a lot at face value but remember that it’s an average. It also means that in restaurants, pubs and other on-trade venues, consumers nationwide gobbled, again, on average, just under 3.6kg of spuds each that same year. So, which popular potato dish is king of the sides?

Spud fact: in October 1995, the potato became the first vegetable to be successfully grown in space – they must have been out of this world! (Source: NASA)

Chip off the ol’ block

Chips or fries consistently top the list of most-ordered sides at UK restaurants, dominating the potato category – whether served thick, golden and fluffy, or thin, crispy and coated in crystals of salt. “Chips, or ‘pommes frites’ as we like to call them here at Bistrot Pierre, continue to be our most popular side dish – not just over the last 12 months but historically across our restaurants,” says Arpita Anstey, the brand’s marketing director. “We have also noticed that not all customers order chips to share; in fact, a growing proportion continue to order sides for their own enjoyment, and our menu reflects this by serving this side in individual pots.”

Nic Townsend, trade marketer at supplier Farm Frites UK, agrees that the chip is the most-loved potato incarnation, saying: “Fries continue to be highest on the list in terms of popularity. This top side dish moves with all food trends and offers a wealth of flexibility and creativity, making them even more tempting to consumers, while offering mark-up opportunities for operators.”

Lockdown comfort

Fries saw the biggest growth in demand during lockdown compared to their spuddy peers, according to Andrea Deutschmanek, international marketing lead at Lamb Weston. “The demand for the way chips are served has changed in the last 12 months,” she says. “The global demand has been rising, and at the same time there are challenges with the supply chain and rising costs.

“Staff shortages have meant outlets have reduced their menus, with a lot of items removed and dishes made easier to prepare for less skilled back-of-house teams. But chips and fries have stayed firmly put; simple, loved by everyone at every occasion and importantly, standing as a high margin item.”

Throughout these months of uncertainty, when people were forced to stay indoors and restaurants turned to delivery services to stay afloat, ordering food to our homes was one of the few pleasures we were legally allowed to enjoy. This meant that use of delivery platforms such as Deliveroo and Uber Eats skyrocketed. People craved dishes that provided comfort and contentment amid such challenging times.

Spud fact: small new potatoes can take as little as 10 weeks to get harvest-ready, but full-sized spuds can take 80–100 days to reach maturity (Source: Garden Design)

“Consumers have been looking for the comfort food they’ve been missing: burgers, pizza, fish and chips and street food-inspired dishes such as wraps and loaded fries,” Townsend explains. “The growth in delivery across all these has seen changes to product, preparation and packaging to enable the same high standards to be offered whether eaten in, taken away or delivered.”

While we’re currently not in lockdown (keep everything crossed that we stay that way), delivery platforms are still trading like hot potatoes – with sales of chips and other tuber sides naturally keeping pace. For operators, this means the development of potato-based sides should always be a focus of menu reviews. While any shape of spud, if cooked well, is not likely to be sneered at by guests, it’s also unlikely to place you in the restaurant hall of fame for the most delicious and memorable sides. Your unique, potato-inspired innovations and interpretations will help your venue stand out from the crowd – and more importantly, keep customers yearning for more.

Low-key creativity

Operators should tap into the latest trends when choosing a side dish selection, Deutschmanek advises. “Variety is a big consideration; of taste, shapes, different offers that are suitable for vegan and vegetarian needs, or even without dairy. But that’s not everything – flavours, spices and seasoning, as well as serving creative combinations are key.”

Bistrot Pierre’s menu presents this in action, with the brand aiming to serve dish accompaniments that cater to as many dietary needs as possible. “Restaurants are becoming more aware of dietary needs so as not to alienate guests,” says Anstey. “All of our sides are gluten-free and vegetarian,” she adds. The brand has also taken time to experiment with the way it serves up chips. “We introduced truffle pommes frites and the consumer response to these was incredibly positive – this new offering quickly became our second-most popular side after pommes frites.”

Never be too shy to use your imagination when planning menus. Getting creative doesn’t have to mean driving up costs and piling on complexity. It’s often the most understated yet ingenious additions or revisions that reap the best rewards – both in terms of mark-ups and customer satisfaction.

Spud fact: the US Department of Agriculture states that “a diet of whole milk and potatoes would supply almost all of the food elements necessary for the maintenance of the human body” (Source: Idaho Potato Museum)

“The operators thriving throughout the pandemic have shown creativity in menu engineering and operation, tailoring for changes in availability, preparation and delivery to consumers, who themselves are seeing lifestyle changes,” Townsend explains. “Operators have increased footfall by adapting menus and offering ‘easy to eat’ food that can be served any time of day.”

Load ‘em up

Loaded fries and chips are being further developed and are increasing in appearance on menus across the country, Deutschmanek points out. “They also bring more margin without too much effort for the back-of-house team,” she explains.

Farm Frites has seen operators widening their potato offerings to include wedges and mash to keep things feeling fresh. “Loaded and topped variations cook quickly, stay hot and form a perfect base for adding value to hearty, warming dishes – especially as the weather gets cooler,” says Townsend.

Make taters a-peeling

The spud is undeniably an ingredient chefs and operators can rely on for any meal throughout the year. Be safe in the knowledge that you can always fall back on the classics – chips, wedges, hash browns, mash or roasties – but don’t be afraid to reconceptualise and rejuvenate your menu now and then. While consumers will always appreciate the more traditional sides, bolder dishes are far more likely to get you noticed. The trusty potato has been gracing human taste buds with flavour and nutrition for thousands of years – don’t let your menu let them down!

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