Restaurant review: The Bishop’s Eye, Wells
Dine Out editor Genna Ash-Brown visits sophisticated Somerset restaurant and wine bar, The Bishop's Eye – a regional hidden treasure
It was a rainy September evening in Wells. There’s a whole lot of history in those compact, cobbled streets, and an atmosphere that becomes almost tangible amid the constant pitter-patter of droplets colliding with the ground. This quaint Somerset town is known as England’s smallest free-standing city (2.11sq mi), according to its city council boundary area (while the City of London is technically smaller at 1.12sq mil, it’s part of the much larger urban area of Greater London). But what this stunning Somerset location lacks in size it makes up for in community spirit and stunning architectural beauty (including its perfectly preserved ecclesiastical quarter) – and some true hidden gems can be found on its food and beverage scene.
The Bishop’s Eye is one such venue. Located on the city’s market square at the gateway to the bishop’s palace, this Grade II listed restaurant and wine bar is a bridge between old world and new. Wooden floors, leaded glass windows, thick stone walls and uneven nooks and crannies add to the overall ambience of the space, while preserving the incredible 13th century heritage of the location in which it resides. But this is very much a place for contemporary dining – something you remember as the rustic furnishings, colourful artwork and a soundtrack of light jazz pull you back to the modern world.
We kicked things off with some drinks (naturally); I sampled a classic French 75 (£9.50) – a zingy, fizzy cocktail featuring gin, Champagne, lemon juice and sugar – while my husband went for a Rolling Pils (£4.75), an Italian-style lager with aromas of lemon, fresh cut grass and a hint of lime. We paired these with a ramakin of garlic and herb-infused olives (£3.75), the ideal way to get our senses tingling before the main show began.
When visiting the Bishop’s Eye, it’s only right that one should sample the Bishop’s Board – a sharing platter served on the sort of wooden block that is very much on trend in this form of dining. We went for the veggie board for two (£25.95), a dish so vibrant and beautifully arranged it almost seemed a shame to ruin the aesthetics… almost. Of course, we dived right in, grazing on red pepper houmous, Cornish mushroom paté (which I still think about today) and antipasti. As a self-professed cheese fiend, it was hard to choose three cheeses from an already concise collection of six, but eventually we settled on the soft Solstice, the Somerset Brie and the Westcombe cheddar. They didn’t disappoint, especially when complemented by a sticky-sweet pear chutney, home-made crackers and artisan bread that made the whole thing feel delightfully indulgent. I paired this course with a glass of the Montstable Pinot Noir (£7.50) at the server’s recommendation. “I know the one you need,” he told me. And reader – he was right.
As the night drew to a close, we couldn’t resist the sound of the home-made chocolate brownie – a dish which, continuing with the theme of the night, we opted to share. The crisp, crackly top revealed an ooey-gooey centre with well-balanced nutty tones. Served with a generous scoop of clotted cream and an espresso chaser, it really was to die for!
With bellies full and taste buds more than satisfied, it was time to get on our merry way. Off we went, back through those rainy, cobbled streets, treading a path I hope will weave through that city for centuries to come.
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