Review: Hokus Pokus & Spagnoletti, The Megaro

Genna Ash-Brown explores the culinary wonderland at The Megaro, where the Hokus Pokus bar’s steampunk-esque botanical cocktails meet the ultramodern, industrial vibes of the in-house Italian restaurant, Spagnoletti

The mural-adorned façade of The Megaro overlooks the never-ending hubbub of St Pancras International and London King’s Cross. Together, these bustling stations form one of the UK’s largest and busiest transport hubs. Any savvy operator with eyes on the next growth opportunity would know that sites close to heavy-footfall public transport links are ready-made goldmines – but you’d be hard-pushed to find a postcode as lucrative slap-bang in central London.

The Megaro

The hotel forms part of The Megaro Collection, a six-strong portfolio of hospitality concepts, all in the urban district of King’s Cross. Originally built as The Midland Grand in 1873, this five-star venue has a story to tell – much like the city in which it resides. Walk through those doors and two central narratives make themselves known. The first is a clear celebration of music and celebrity culture, a motif reflected in the hotel’s themed lodgings – including the punk-rock-meets-acid-house-inspired ‘Backstage Britannia’ room and the glamourous ‘Pop Diva’ suite. The second pays homage to 19th-century science, dropping visitors into a mechanical realm powered by botany and technological experimentation – and one where the quack doctor and the steampunk reign king. The walls are adorned with trinkets, jars and simulated potions, each one contributing to an overall environment designed to steer guests safely away from reality and into The Megaro fantasy.

You could argue that no sane person would merge these two ideas together, but perhaps that’s exactly why it works. It’s different, and that is fundamentally the vibe the concept was intended to affect. Mission accomplished.

The very same veneer that catches the eye from the street outside harbours a magical labyrinth within. That’s not a kitsch hyperbole conjured up for impact but a genuine observation. I got lost trying to navigate my way around the place – not in a ‘Blair Witch Project’ kind of way of course, more in what felt like a ‘Hogwarts moving staircase’ sort of way.  I turned a corner, went down some stairs, turned one or two corners more and ascended an entirely different set of stairs only to end up exactly where I started. Anyone who knows me acknowledges that I’m severely navigationally challenged, so it might be a reflection of my own shortcomings rather than any fault of the hotel itself but, either way, it felt fitting and was really quite good fun. But, in all seriousness, I had a reservation to get to – luckily the friendly staff were on hand to guide me through the maze.

Hokus Pokus

The menu at Hokus Pokus is as impressive as the bespoke, leatherette book in which it is bound. I was greeted by a charismatic and attentive bartender, who kindly guided me through the many pages and sections that comprised the cocktail offering. During my time in the underground space, that same bartender helped every customer through what otherwise might have been an overwhelming decision-making process. He got down to their level, asked what kind of spirits and flavours they liked, and pointed to the serves he felt would best suit their preference. If you want to talk about tailoring the guest experience, that right there is a slam-dunk.

Inspired by the Victorian quack doctor James Morison, who opened the British College of Health just a few doors down in 1828, the bar promises creative mixology at its best. Almost every component, from the orange liqueur to the strawberry wine, is made in-house, and even the smoke is infused with flavour meant to last through every sip.

Even the smoke is infused with flavour at Hokus Pokus cocktail bar

The menu is aptly partitioned into various ‘Prescriptions’, including ‘Molecular Mixology’, ‘Flamed Potions’, ‘Smokey Potions’, ‘Fruity Potions’, ‘Sippers’, ‘Recipes from the Past’ and ‘Tempered Prescriptions’. First up for me, from the ‘Past’ section, was the Hibiscus Spicy Tequila (£17), reminiscent of the spicy margarita that receives much hype today. It featured Tapatio Tequila infused with hibiscus, homemade orange liqueur, citrus elixir, velvet falernum and chilli pepper. Safe to say it started my stay off with a bang!

This was closely followed by the ‘Molecular’ Tot & Voltaire (£18) – peach-infused Black Tot Caribbean Blend Rum with white vermouth, green apple and Xin Voltaire Aurelie Sorbet complemented by a molecular sphere of house-made orange potion and pomegranate caviar. For me, this was a real highlight. Top tip: bite down on the ‘caviar’ orbs to enjoy a tiny yet boozy explosion.

Spagnoletti

If Hokus Pokus is oldie-worldie, then Spagnoletti – The Megaro’s (current) flagship restaurant – is very much of the here and now. It might even cross the border into the not-too-distant future. Bright yellow accents, digital signage and exposed pipes bring a hyper-modern and slightly industrial feel. It may not be the backdrop one would usually choose for an Italian ‘soul food’ small plate concept but, again, it works.

When Adam Simmonds was appointed The Megaro’s chef-patron in May, he wasted no time implementing a new menu. First from his seasonal offering, I went for the Charcoal Bruschetta with Tomato and Mozzarella (£7). It brought fresh and vibrant flavours, and really was the perfect way to kick off my solo feast. Next up was the Cured Salmon with Asparagus and Olive Oil (£10) – a dreamy combination that can’t do wrong as far as I’m concerned. The Open Raviolo of Scallops, Morels, Wild Garlic and Ginger (£16) was yet another belter, gifting my tastebuds with the subtle sort of flavours that form the perfect summer bite. I finished with the signature Tiramisu, complete with Savoiardo and chocolate soil (£7). I’m not usually a dessert person but here, there were no regrets. All of this was washed down with a glass of Sicilian Bianco Biologico (£8) – a cloudy, unfiltered wine with hints of herb and citrus blossom. After all that, dear reader, as I’m sure you can imagine, I was well and truly done. But I would gladly go back. In fact, I fully intend to! While it was a joy to try his new menu, chef Simmonds is launching his own signature concept at The Megaro later this year. Which culinary dimension the property will take us to next, who knows? But I can’t wait to find out

You may also be interested in…