Restaurant Review: Oak, Crazy Bear

Genna Ash-Brown samples the elegant tasting menu at Crazy Bear Stadhampton’s recently opened restaurant, Oak

For anyone wanting to push the boat out on a special occasion venue in the not-too-distant future, look no further than Crazy Bear. Whether it’s a birthday, wedding, anniversary or any other celebration worthy of pure, unapologetic decadence, you can guarantee an unforgettable experience at either of the group’s two outposts, one located in Stadhampton and the other in Beaconsfield.

We were lucky enough to experience the irresistible madness of Stadhampton during an overnight stay in late March. From the intricate, old-world glamour of the bar to the Thai-inspired outdoor terrace to the velour-clad flamboyance of the hotel’s themed rooms – with options including Snug, Cosy, Boujee and Decadent – the whole setup is truly a sight to behold. Take the reception area for starters, housed outside the building in a traditional red double-decker bus and sign-posted with neon lights. Start as you mean to go on, I suppose. And as the lovely staff who welcomed us uttered soon after our arrival: crazy by name, crazy by nature. Yep, that is what they say!

Even if it’s not really your thing, you can’t help but marvel at the overstated beauty of the venue’s design. Every detail has been carefully considered, adding to the overall wonder of the space and looking almost devastatingly expensive – because, no doubt, it is! I mean, even down to the pillars – every single one throughout the terrace has a bear motif carved into the wood. And let me tell you, there are a lot of pillars…

The eclectic, maximalist style that adorns every space from wall to wall is obviously not going to be to everyone’s taste, but let’s not pretend that was ever the intention. Regardless of whether it’s a bit of you or not, this place has been spellbinding guests since 1993, and with the in-house Thai restaurant currently undergoing a major renovation, there’s clearly no plan to tone things down any time soon. And why should they?! Crazy Bear knows exactly what it is and leans right in, full throttle. The overwhelming ‘extra-ness’ is all part of what makes it so special.

Wined and dined

The hotel’s latest restaurant, Oak, opened in the first week of February, and it’s probably one of the more refined areas on the entire site. With plush seating, a mirrored ceiling and wood-panelled walls, it’s an intimate space that seats just 42 guests. Separate from the glitz and glamour of the rest of the hotel, it displays a more subtle form of elegance and classic British style, serving as the perfect backdrop for head chef Callum Holyland’s modern British tasting menu.

The evening began with a small amuse-bouche, featuring almond with cured trout and a cheese cone with onion powder. Both were delicate, delicious and beautifully presented – the perfect way to kick off the meal.

Next up was the stone-ground bread with cultured butter, closely followed by the onion broth with cheese, seaweed and burnt butter – a wonderful hit of umami balanced by a touch of sweetness from the caramelised onion. Then there was the Sand Hills asparagus, a dish of raw asparagus accompanied by preserved white asparagus and sheep’s curd dressing, fresh, flavourful and packed full of crunch. The Orkney scallop followed, served with forced rhubarb and sea lettuce squid, plus a dash of lardo to please all you meat-eaters. It was, quite frankly, the best scallop I’ve ever had. And as a seafood fanatic, that’s really saying something!

Peanut parfait

For my carnivorous partner, the Oxford Down lamb cannon shoulder came next, accompanied by cured swede and sprouting broccoli, while I was treated to halibut served with mussels, dulce, caviar, sea vegetables and topped with a Champagne sauce. I could drink that sauce by the gallon and feel absolutely no shame (and probably feel quite merry to boot!). The pre-dessert was N.Y.E.D.T.T., otherwise known as ‘Not Your Everyday Treacle Tart’, a signature special from chef Holyland. It was a little dish packed full of zest; its texture more like a flapjack than its namesake treacle tart. Finally, the peanut parfait, which was pretty much the ideal dessert and well and truly finished us off. It featured salted caramel, chocolate and caramelised milk. What more could you want?

Every course was punctuated with a glass of wine, expertly chosen by the in-house sommelier Shaun Corrigan. He showcases the art of pairing at its best, each glass conscientiously selected, personably served and proficiently described, effortlessly enhancing the flavours of each respective dish. Honestly, Corrigan’s sommelier pairing deserves a feature all of its own.

Ultimately, Oak offers contemporary fine dining that feels inclusive and approachable, embodying culinary excellence with none of the perceived pretentiousness that often abounds in the space. While it’s not the type of restaurant you’d be likely to frequent every week, you’d be hard-pushed to find an eight-course meal of this calibre for £85 per person (plus £55 for the sommelier wine pairing) elsewhere in the UK. So, if you’re a foodie keen to feed your inner crazy, this is the one for you!

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