Restaurant Review: The Bath Townhouse

Dine Out editor Genna Ash-Brown visits Coppa Club’s latest opening, The Bath Townhouse, for an evening of top-notch dinner and drinks

Bath is a city that oozes sophistication and class. The thermal springs drew the Romans to this historic south-west location millennia ago, but now it’s the city’s desirable quality of life that draws middle-class residents and tourists in droves. It’s a place that undeniably attracts a certain demographic, with government data placing the average house price in the city at just under half a million pounds as of May this year. But what this place lacks in diversity it provides tenfold in both natural and architectural beauty (with its Georgian grandeur serving as a source of inspiration for many of Jane Austen’s musings, among many other literary legends), and its green credentials setting an impressive benchmark for the rest of the UK. These factors, and many more, contributed to Bath being named the best place to live out of almost 1,400 cities across the country for the second consecutive year. But none of this prompted a visit by me and my husband on a drizzly Thursday evening – oh no. Our primary motivation was food, served with a healthy dose of first-class hospitality (nothing new there, then…).

A growing estate

The city feels like a natural fit for Coppa Club, a brand owned and operated by Various Eateries. While the concept is inspired by the exclusive members’ clubs that have for so long been frequented by suited and booted businessmen and ladies who lunch, these venues are far more inclusive, charging no fees and clearly stipulating that everyone is welcome. It’s known for merging elements of café, bar, restaurant and lounge culture under one roof, with 11 branches across the UK – each one of them unique. From Haslemere to Putney, Tower Bridge to Clifton, Maidenhead to Cobham and Brighton to Sonning, the group has grown rapidly since first launching in 2015. A trading update published in May revealed that Coppa Club’s revenue for the 26-week period ending 3 April 2022 was £17.8m – up 439% year-on-year. At the tail end of the Covid-19 pandemic, that’s one heck of a result. This solid performance has allowed the business to invest in a string of new openings, The Bath Townhouse being its most recent (at the time of writing).

Setting the scene

The venue opened on 16 August, about a month before our visit. The Grade II-listed building has that classic Georgian façade for which the city is well-known, centrally located on Old Bond Street in the heart of Bath’s busy shopping district. Step inside and the interior is just as appealing, showcasing original Art Deco features, mish-mash patterns and vibrant colours that make the place feel plush yet very much on trend. It operates over two separate floors, each with its own distinct vibe that means the venue can adapt to a vast scope of occasions. Quiet morning coffee? Tick. Schmoozing client lunch? Tick. Weekend dinner and pre-drinks? Tick and tick.

Seared King prawns with garlic, chilli and parsley

Downstairs houses the main café, restaurant and general dining space, and it’s much bigger than you’d expect when looking in from outside. The décor is fun and somehow still brilliantly timeless, with dimmed lighting that sets the mood and  gives the place a certain warmth. On the second floor, guests can experience ‘Upstairs at the Townhouse’ – a sultry all-day lounge that turns into an intimate, candle-lit bar at twilight. Whatever frame of mind you find yourself in, you can bet that this place has you covered.

Wined and dined

It felt like Friday night when we walked into the building. The place was abuzz with lively chatter, background beats and purposeful footsteps as staff ferried eye-catching serves from bar to table. It was the sort of busy you’re only used to seeing at the weekend, the kind of atmosphere that makes that thought of ‘oh go on then, just one more’ so much harder to resist. We kicked things off with a bottle of red – the Vega Piedra Rioja (£26), a Spanish wine made with ripe red berries and just a hint of spice. Subtle but oh-so satisfying. To start, I went for the Sundried Tomato Arancini with Caprese mayo (£7.50), and the bite-sized treats, topped with a sprinkle of Parmesan, were light and crisp – the perfect amuse-bouche to kick my taste buds into gear. My husband, Max, went for the Sprouting Broccoli Salad (£7.50) with grains, toasted hazelnuts, pomegranate and tahini dressing; a choice of which I was envious. Luckily, it was almost big enough to pass as a main and Max, the big softie that he is, was kind enough to share. The best of both worlds for me, I’d say.

I’ve been vegetarian for about five years, but honestly, I adore seafood, so I’ve been known to indulge once or twice a year should the craving become too big to ignore. For some reason, the Wild Prawn Spaghetti (£22.50) jumped out to me on the menu – so much so that I couldn’t really take in any other items. “Your body must be needing it,” chimed my inner voice, so, feeling justified, I jumped right in. You just can’t beat fresh pasta, and the tomato sauce was packed with rich, garlicky flavour that perfectly complemented the plump, pink prawns. Max chose the steak (£28.50) with pepper sauce, served with a grilled Portobello mushroom and skinny fries, and cooked medium-rare. It wasn’t the best steak he’d ever had – neither did he expect it to be, given that Coppa Club isn’t a specialist steakhouse brand – but it was cooked well and he licked his lips with approval until every bite was gone.

We rounded things off with the Chocolate and Miso Mousse (£8.50) and the Crème Brûlée – unnecessary after the feast we’d already consumed but we couldn’t resist. The mousse was rich and I helped Max finish it off, but the Crème Brûlée stole the show, with vanilla and raspberry flavours that really shone through. I definitely have more of a savoury than sweet tooth, but this was a real meal highlight for me.

All in all, it was a storming success, and Max and I are hoping to plan a return visit soon. Perhaps we’ll go on an actual Friday night. Those cocktails are calling my name…

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