Restaurant Review: With great FiNESSA

Genna Ash-Brown pays a visit to Nessa – a suave modern bistro in the heart of London’s Soho, showcasing fresh British flavours from executive chef Tom Cenci

I hopped off the tube at Piccadilly Circus and took a brief three-minute walk to my dinner destination.

It was a mild Thursday night in October, and I couldn’t help but be drawn in by the bustling sounds of the city as I cruised past the bright lights of London’s West End. It’s hard to imagine there’s ever a quiet moment in a neighbourhood that breathes so much nightlife and culture, and that’s also home to some of the nation’s most iconic attractions. It may not hit the spot for some, but I always enjoy the madness of it all.

My latest culinary jaunt into the Big Smoke took me to Nessa – a restaurant that opened in March 2023, and one I’ve been eager to experience since covering its launch. What better time to visit than a year (and a bit) on from the restaurant’s debut, when the operation is (hopefully) slick as a greased-up pompadour and the team is comfortably settled?

Maslow's touch

As part of Maslow’s hospitality group, Nessa sits alongside sister concepts Yasmin Bar & Restaurant, which is located on the rooftop upstairs, as well as Mortimer House Kitchen in Fitzrovia. Private members’ clubs Mortimer House and 1 Warwick are also part of this metropolitan estate. Developed by Maslow’s founder Guy Ivesha and executive chef Tom Cenci (formerly of Loyal Tavern and Duck & Waffle), this contemporary British eatery sits at the intersection of Brewer, Glasshouse and Warwick streets, offering a menu that’s shaped by the seasons, with classic dishes elevated by Cenci’s stylish twist. Inspired by the spirited history of Soho, its design draws on the work of Vanessa Bell and the creatives that defined the city’s Bohemian movement. The result? An interior that feels plush, yet laid-back and cosy. It’s a space that can effortlessly transition between breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, also presenting a cool and sophisticated backdrop for after-work drinks or catch-ups with friends.

Decisions, decisions

First things first – something to drink. I was immediately drawn to the restaurant’s cocktail menu, unable to resist the enticing list of carefully curated serves, all of which are priced at £14.

For me, it was a toss-up between the Cuppa G&T (Cotswolds, Italicus, rose, cherry, blood orange and elderflower tonic) and the So-Hoe (Cazcabel Blanco, Manzana Verde, green strawberry and mint).

A menu packed full of vibrancy and freshness (Image: Rebecca Hope Photography)

Both of these sounded right up my street, but it was the latter that came out on top. It certainly didn’t disappoint – zingy but perfectly balanced. My lovely pal – a stronger and far more admirable woman than I – was in the midst of Sober October at the time, so naturally gravitated towards the ‘No-Lo’ list. She settled on the Timeless (Everleaf Forest, vanilla, strawberry, turmeric and ginger beer, £9) though, with only two options to choose from, her decision-making process was far quicker than mine.

Her drink was both refreshing and delicious, and while it may only have been her sober-curious quest that drew my attention to the selection in the first place, I couldn’t help feeling that the range was rather scarce. That said, the other option, Check It Out, featuring Pentire Adrift, raspberry and Noughty Chardonnay, also sounded tempting – even for one dedicated to the booze!

Now onto the food, and here’s where things really got tricky. From the Breads & Snacks and Small Plates to the Large Plates and Sides, between us, we wouldn’t have said no to a taste of them all. We started with the Cheese & Onion Croquettes (£9), with the mauve-tinted grape mustard mayo accompaniment offering a unique flavour combo neither of us had encountered before. It was subtle yet complementary, allowing that cheese and onion comfort to shine through.

Elsewhere in the Breads & Snacks section, you’ll find Heritage Carrots with vadouvan and curry dressing (£12), Charred Mackerel with cucumber, lime and gooseberries (£14) and Cheese & Chive Rarebit with pickled onions on a toasted muffin (£10.50) – a dish we found particularly hard to resist but we exercised some impressive self-control, having already had the night’s cheesy fix.

Next up, the small plates. The Waldorf Salad with pickled celery, golden raisins and pecans (£14) was crisp and crunchy in all the right places, but the Celeriac Carbonara with pancetta, confit egg, truffle and Spenwood cheese (£18) was certainly a highlight. It’s not something you hear often, but the truffle could have been a touch stronger – though the flavour was still just as satisfying and the celeriac alternative to spaghetti was one of the best I’ve seen.

Onto the large plates. For me, the Cornish Cod with pink fir potatoes, parsley sauce and caviar (£29). That cod is everything you want in a fresh fish dish – delicately cooked and beautifully seasoned, with a nicely browned crust that gave it a multi-dimensional texture. And that sauce? So vividly and delightfully green, it was a real treat to look at as well as to eat.

My friend went for the Lamb Rump with grilled little gem, peas and mustard sauce (£29). While she would have liked the meat just a little pinker, she couldn’t fault the flavour, and it was yet another dish that was artfully plated. From where I was sat, it looked again like comfort food incarnate.

After all of that, we were absolutely gutted to have no room for dessert. But that Cherry Bakewell with almond frosting and caramelised pecans (£9.50) has my name on it, so you best believe I’ll be back!

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